What Makes Murmansk Special?

Murmansk, nicknamed the “Gateway to the Arctic,” is the world’s largest city north of the Arctic Circle, with a population of about 300,000 inhabitants (it used to be 468,000 in 1989), so its population has been in decline since the end of the Cold War. Murmansk is a major Russian port in the Arctic Ocean. The port of Murmansk remains ice-free year-round due to the warm North Atlantic Current and is an important fishing and shipping destination. It is also the home port of Atomflot, the world’s only fleet of nuclear-powered icebreakers. During World War II (known in Russia as the Great Patriotic War), Murmansk served as a port for the Arctic convoys, and after the war, it became the Soviet Union’s most important submarine base. During the war, the city resisted the fierce attacks of the Nazis and received the honorary title of a Hero City. Despite its remote location in the far northwest part of Russia and north of the Arctic Circle, it’s a lively city full of restaurants, cafes, museums, monuments, cultural centers, and more.

In August 2024, I visited Murmansk for the very first time and I was totally blown away by the stunning beauty of its unique surroundings, being north of the Arctic Circle. It’s not only the unique nature that stunned me but also many other sites, experiences, and of course, the great food that made my experience there truly rich and unique. In this blog, I will share with you the details of my experience in this remote place, so join me!

The Flight

Before talking about how I got to Murmansk, I would like to share that my last trip to Russia was in 2019, so I’ve been away from this country for about 5 years. It was also my first visit since Western sanctions were imposed about 2.5 years ago. Deciding to make the trip wasn’t an easy decision, despite my deep love for the country and its history and culture. I’ve visited it many times before and always had great experiences, but this time I hesitated due to challenges like the geopolitical situation, visa requirements, and practical inconveniences—such as the inability to use internationally issued credit and debit cards or the limited availability of international hotel and apartment booking sites such as booking.com and Airbnb. Nevertheless, I still made my decision to go and I’m so glad that I did so as I ended up having a great time during my stay. In another blog post, I’ll share a detailed guide on navigating the logistics of travelling to Russia, including visa processes, opening a bank account, issuing a local debit card, and booking accommodations. But for this post, I’ll focus on my experiences in Murmansk and the surrounding region.

Back to the topic of this section, which is the flight, I flew from St. Petersburg to Murmansk. I booked my ticket through Trip.com. The flight was operated by Rossiya, a subsidiary of Aeroflot. It was an early morning flight, a short, and uneventful 2-hour flight, with the only complimentary offering being sparkling water with a slice of lemon. Coffee was available but at an additional cost. The aircraft was a Russian-made Sukhoi Superjet, which felt modern and comfortable seats and with good legroom. However, I did notice the cabin was a bit noisier compared to Airbus and Boeing planes. Despite that, the flight was smooth and on time. Honestly, prior to this trip, I had long dreamed of taking the train to Murmansk (a 25-hour journey from St. Petersburg) which I’ve fantasized about for years. Unfortunately, I had a very short vacation and also many trains were sold out during the high season, so I decided to fly. But I still hope to make that train journey one day, maybe in the winter, who knows!

Arrival and First Impressions

I landed at around 10 am. Murmansk Airport was so tiny that it took me less than five minutes to step outside the airport and order a Yandex taxi to the hotel. By the way, the moment I got off the plane, I felt the crisp Arctic breeze for the first time. Fortunately, it was a beautiful summer day, so the wind was refreshing and pleasant. I imagine it would be a very different experience in the winter!

The airport is located outside the city, so it took about 35 minutes to reach my hotel. I stayed at the Azimut Hotel, formerly known as Hotel Arktika, which, interestingly, is the tallest building in the Arctic. Since it was too early to check in, I left my backpack at the hotel reception and went out for a walk around the hotel, followed by an early lunch. Along the way, I made a quick stop at a striking monument dedicated to one of the heroes of the Great Patriotic War. Afterward, I discovered an incredible restaurant called “White Rabbit.” I’ll share more details and photos of my experience there in the food section below, but for now, all I can say is that the borsch soup and beef stroganoff I had there were simply amazing. After my delicious lunch, I returned to the hotel, where my room was ready. It was on the 16th floor, with a beautiful view of the Murmansk port.

Huge Disappointment

Murmansk is home to the decommissioned nuclear icebreaker Lenin, a historic legendary Soviet-built nuclear icebreaker that stands as a major symbol of the city. Lenin, the world’s first nuclear-powered civilian ship, began its service in 1959, clearing sea routes for cargo ships along Russia’s northern coast. Officially decommissioned in 1989, it was later converted into a museum ship and is now based in Murmansk. This iconic icebreaker attracts visitors from around the globe, eager to explore this magnificent piece of Soviet engineering.

Right after checking into the hotel, I rushed outside to see Lenin but sadly, I was met with an unexpected disappointment. A big shock! I arrived at the port and I saw a long line of people waiting to enter something, but I couldn’t see Lenin. Instead, there was another ship in its place. I was stunned and in disbelief. I joined the line, hoping it would lead to Lenin or to an answer to this mystery about where is Lenin? I asked a man who was standing in the line with his child if he spoke English, and he confirmed he did. He informed me that Lenin was in the docks for maintenance. I hadn’t considered that a museum ship would require scheduled maintenance. It turns out Lenin undergoes scheduled maintenance periodically, and unfortunately, my visit coincided with one of these times. I would say, it was a significant shock.

And then I asked the same man why people were standing in this huge line, and he answered that they’re here to see the “STS Sedov,” the largest traditional sailing ship ever built in operation. Sedov is today a sail training vessel, training cadets from the universities of Kaliningrad, Saint Petersburg, and Astrakhan. This ship was originally built as a German cargo ship, but it was acquired in 1945 by the Soviet Union as war reparations. It was still nice to see Sedov, but I was there to see the Lenin, not the Sedov. I was disappointed, but I immediately had a positive idea in my head and said to myself, “Maybe this is a reason to come back to Murmansk someday.”

Alyosha Monument

I was disappointed but I didn’t want to waste more time so I ordered a Yandex taxi to take me to Alyosha Monument, the second tallest statue in Russia after the “Motherland Calls” statue in Volgograd. It’s a huge 35-meter monument to the defenders of the Soviet Arctic during the Great Patriotic War. The statue faces west, toward where the fiercest fighting of the Arctic Campaign occurred when the German invaders were turned back from the approaches to Murmansk at the Zapadnaya Litsa River in July 1941. In front of the statue, there’s the eternal flame in the middle of polished granite.

The view from the statue is spectacular, and I enjoyed it. The weather was perfect, and the Arctic wind felt refreshing, not cold at all. I spent about 45 minutes there just enjoying the view and had a nice chat with some people there, they were visiting Murmansk from Novosibirsk in Siberia. We later decided to go together to explore other spots in the area, not far away from the Alyosha monument.

The Monuments to the Waiting Woman and Cat Semyon

About a 20-minute walk from Alyosha stands the monument to the Waiting Woman, a beautiful tribute to those who waited for their loved ones to return from long sea journeys. Though the monument was officially erected in 2012, the first attempt to build it dates back to 1985. However, the Perestroika “reforms” hit, and there was a lack of funding, so the project was delayed for many years. After many attempts, the statue finally became a reality. This beautiful monument symbolizes the enduring love and devotion of women who patiently awaited the return of their husbands, sons, fathers, or other loved ones from a long journey at sea. It’s such a powerful structure.

A short drive from there is a lovely park featuring a charming monument to Cat Semyon, a symbol of courage and devotion of the city’s residents. According to the story, in 1987, a Murmansk family returning from vacation in Moscow lost their Siamese cat, Semyon. Unable to find him, they returned home to Murmansk without him. Miraculously, after six years and a journey of 2,000 kilometres, Semyon made his way back to his family’s home. This heartwarming story adds a special significance to the monument, making it a beloved landmark.

I said goodbye to my new friends from Novosibirsk, and I returned to my hotel in the center. As evening approached, I went for an amazing dinner at a great local restaurant called “Terrasa” which was highly recommended to me. I will write details about my food experience in Murmansk in the food section (I guess there will be a lot to talk about there).

After a delicious dinner, it was time to head back to the hotel and get some rest in preparation for a long day ahead. The next day, I planned to visit Teriberka, a remote village north of the Arctic Circle, situated literally at the edge of the world.

Teriberka, the Edge of the World

The next day, after enjoying a hearty breakfast at the hotel, it was time to head to Teriberka, a remote village on the Barents Sea, due to its remote north location, it’s often described as one of the last villages on earth. This was a particularly exciting day for me, as it would be my first time experiencing the tundra climate and seeing the Arctic Ocean. Filled with anticipation, I waited outside the hotel for my guide to pick me up. I had found a tour online through a company called Far North, which arranged my pickup for the morning.

The main guide, Aleksei, who speaks excellent English, was originally supposed to lead the tour. However, after spending the previous night chasing the Northern Lights, he was unable to make the early morning departure. Instead, he sent Anton, who is another guide, to pick me up. Although Anton didn’t speak much English—just a few words—he was knowledgeable, funny, and full of energy, which made the trip enjoyable. There were five other people on the tour, all Russians. I was the only foreigner in the group. While they were initially shy about speaking English, and worried about making mistakes (as Russians can sometimes be perfectionists), they opened up once they realized I wasn’t a native speaker myself.

The tour cost 5,000 Russian Rubles (about $54 USD), though food was not included. It lasted around 10 hours, making for a long but eventful and memorable day to the edge of the world.

The ride to Teriberka took about three hours, with a few stops along the way. It was fascinating to see the transition from the Taiga belt to the Tundra zone. Entering the treeless and plain tundra zone for the first time was an amazing experience and such a beautiful feeling especially when I saw it for the first time. It made me have so many thoughts in my head about how beautiful this world is, and how sad that many people today are destroying it.

Our first quick stop was at a wind power plant, where the terrain started to change to the tundra landscape. We then stopped briefly at a spot known as the “Pyramids of Stones,” followed by a visit to a ship graveyard. Later, we made a long stop in Teriberka, where I saw and even touched the Arctic Ocean for the very first time. The sandy beach was beautiful, and I was so lucky to have sunny, relatively warm weather there. The temperature was about 14°C and it felt nice and warm. I only needed a light jacket, and the refreshing wind coming from. the ocean made me feel so good. By the way, some might argue that it isn’t technically the Arctic Ocean, as it’s the Barents Sea, but since the Barents Sea is a marginal sea of the Arctic Ocean, it can be considered part of it.

After the stop at the beautiful sandy beach along the Arctic Ocean, we continued driving on the dirt road for another 30 minutes or so. We arrived at our hiking spot, our guide parked the car, and we began a breathtaking hike through the Tundra. The landscape was incredibly beautiful and I am struggling to find words to describe how beautiful it looked and how stunned I was. Everything I saw looked nothing like anything I had ever seen in my life. Having never been anywhere near the Tundra before, everything felt new and exciting to me. During the hike, I noticed some of the Russian hikers in our group picking and eating wild currants. I decided to do the same and guess what? It tasted so delicious!

After hiking for over an hour, we arrived at a stunning spot called Batareyskiy Vodopad (Batareyskiy Waterfalls). The area features some beautiful waterfalls and offers breathtaking views of Teriberka Bay. The scenery was absolutely mesmerizing, and the feeling I had there was beyond describing with words. On top of that, we were fortunate to have perfect weather during the tour. Everything was simply ideal!

We also took a break there to enjoy some Russian tea and a pre-lunch snack of bread with sausages. After the long hike, I was starving and waiting for the real lunch meal waiting for us at the restaurant later.

I think that describing the beauty of nature, especially for an unusual place north of the Arctic Circle like this place is one of the hardest things to write about. I am not a poet or an author so I believe the best thing to do is to leave you with the photos, and let them speak for themselves 🙂

Soon after, we had a short hike to the unique, breathtaking Dragon Eggs beach, a hidden gem that was unlike any other spot we had visited. Similar to the experience I had at the previous site, this one was also distinct and truly breathtaking, filled with natural beauty that seemed almost otherworldly. We spent some time there meditating and thinking, letting the calming sea breeze wash over us. It felt so peaceful and so beautiful, allowing us to connect deeply with nature while reflecting on our journey, and unforgettable moments.

Later, after this astonishing hike, we returned to the sandy beach area for our much-anticipated lunch. We were all starving! I ordered salmon for lunch, and I would say it was good but not exceptional. The price was a bit exaggerated (I had better and more affordable meals in the city of Murmansk than there).

Anyhow, after lunch, we visited a deer farm next door where we had the chance to feed and interact with the deer. We also made a stop at the Arctic Brewery before starting our drive back to Murmansk. By the way, our guide Anton drove incredibly fast that it felt that he was flying! I was sitting in the front seat so I would say it wasn’t at all a calm drive. I arrived back in Murmansk at around 7 pm. I was exhausted after a long and exciting trip. I rested a bit, showered, and got myself ready to go out for dinner at the Terrasa restaurant again.

Food

Here comes a very important section in this blog: the food! of course! To my pleasant surprise, I had some incredible meals in Murmansk. I went there with low expectations about the food. I only heard that they have good seafood in Murmansk, but not only the seafood was great, but nearly every dish I tried there was fantastic.

As I mentioned earlier, shortly after arriving in Murmansk, I went to a great restaurant called “White Bunny” for lunch. I was starving, so I had a big lunch of Borscht Soup and Beef Stroganoff. It was very flavorful and tasty – definitely 10 out of 10. The service was also top-notch: polite and professional. I paid only 1,230 Russian Rubles (around $12 USD) for this high-quality meal plus the cappuccino, which was also excellent.

Later that evening, I went to another wonderful restaurant called “Terrasa,” where I had an amazing seafood salad for a starter and delicious seafood pasta for the main course. Once again, I would rate them 10 out of 10. It was so good that I returned to the same restaurant the very next day.

In Teriberka, I had a salmon dish which was okay but not special at all. I don’t recall exactly how much it cost but it wasn’t cheap. Later that evening, I went to “Terrasa” restaurant again for my last supper in Murmansk. I tried a delicious deer meat burger. It was my first time tasting the deer meat and I had an awkward feeling about it since a few hours earlier, I visited a deer farm in Teriberka and now I’m eating its meat, which was so delicious, nevertheless. I also had a very good cocktail that was wonderfully crafted.

Summary

Murmansk is an astonishing place. As the largest city in the world north of the Arctic Circle, it’s a vibrant city that is full of life, history, and culture. I had long wanted to visit, and I’m thrilled that I finally got the chance to be there, despite the current challenges and the inconveniences in Russia. Reaching such a remote destination, the edge of the world, made me feel incredibly lucky and privileged. The entire experience was like a dream, a beautiful dream.

The weather was spectacular when I was there. It was sunny for nearly the entire 48 hours I was there. It was also relatively warm, especially for a city at such a northern latitude. Seeing the change of the landscape from the Taiga belt to the Tundra was an incredible experience. Despite the short time I spent there, I believe it was a truly valuable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

I’ve read and heard that Murmansk is an amazing destination, both in summer and winter. In summer, you can experience the polar days, where the sun never sets, while winter brings the opposite—the polar nights, when the sun doesn’t rise for more than a month. Despite the darkness, winter is still a fantastic time to visit the Murmansk and Teriberka regions, offering the chance to see the Northern Lights. There are also many exciting winter activities to enjoy, such as snowmobiling, dog or reindeer sledding, and visiting the Polar Botanical Garden, among others. Some Murmansk residents who I met there told me that Murmansk becomes a magical fairytale in winter. I’ve always dreamed of travelling there in the winter, by train from St. Petersburg, of course! rather than by plane. I hope I will do it someday.

I really liked the city, and the people were generally hospitable and friendly. Although they don’t open up immediately (which is common in Russian culture), the locals I interacted with were warm and kind. The city also felt very safe. I noticed many kids and teenagers playing in the street near my hotel, even late into the evening—probably enjoying the last days of summer. One interesting fact about Murmansk is that it used to be home to the northernmost McDonald’s in the world. However, after the sanctions, all McDonald’s restaurants in Russia were rebranded under a new Russian chain called Vkusno i Tochka. Despite the name change, the menu is almost identical to McDonald’s. I tried a cheeseburger there, and it tasted just like a McDonald’s cheeseburger. The place was packed, especially with teenagers.

The hotel where I stayed which was formerly known as Hotel Arktika and is called Azimut Hotel now (honestly, I prefer the old name) had a great central location, right in the heart of the city, just a 3-minute walk from the central train station, which still has the Soviet star on top of it to this day. It was also pretty cool to stay in the tallest building north of the Arctic Circle. The hotel stay cost me 15,000 Russian Rubles for two nights (about $150 USD). It was generally good value for money considering the convenient location, the cleanliness of the hotel, and the politeness of the staff.

After a quick breakfast at a café next to the hotel and a final walk around the city center, I returned to my room, packed my bag, and ordered a Yandex taxi to head to the airport for my flight back to St. Petersburg. The airport is incredibly small, one of the tiniest I’ve ever seen. However, it had several souvenir shops selling authentic Murmansk products, and I wish I had space in my bag to bring something back, but unfortunately, I didn’t. I especially liked the beautiful Soviet-era designs on the walls, depicting typical jobs people in Murmansk used to have.

This is all what I can say about my unique experience in the world’s largest city north of the Arctic Circle for now. If there’s one particular word to describe the feeling I had in Murmansk and the surrounding region, it would be the feeling of being so lucky to go that far. I felt so lucky to reach such a remote and exotic place, especially in this turbulent time. I felt once again like a true voyager, a feeling I also had when I visited Mongolia

In the next blog, I will write about my experience visiting Russia during the inconvenient sanctions period, sharing the challenges I encountered while preparing for the trip. I’ll discuss the planning process and how I navigated various travel restrictions, secured accommodations and how I managed to get a debit card there, so Stay tuned!