Have you ever heard of Transnistria?

After the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, Transnistria, or Pridnestrovie as locals call it, a narrow strip of land located between Moldova and Ukraine along the Dniester River declared independence from Moldova, leading to a brief but intense war that ended in 1992 with a ceasefire, but Transnistria remains unrecognized by the international community. About six or seven years ago, I remember watching a YouTube video titled “Transnistria: The Country That Doesn’t Exist.” I was intrigued and fascinated by what I saw, and ever since, the idea of visiting this unique place has been on my mind.

There are places in the world that feel like they belong to another time, and Transnistria or Pridnestrovie, is certainly one of them. This breakaway republic isn’t recognized by any sovereign nation, meaning it technically doesn’t exist. However, for the more than 400,000 people who live there, it is home, with its own government, currency, borders, and even army. Transnistria is a self-declared state located along the Dniester River, separated from the rest of Moldova both politically and ideologically.

Transnistria is heavily influenced by Soviet-era symbols and architecture; statues of Lenin and an atmosphere that feels frozen in time. Walking through the streets of Tiraspol, the capital of Transnistria, makes you feel as if you’ve stepped back into the Soviet Union. I remember when one travel blogger perfectly described it as a “Soviet theme park”. It truly looks like one yet, it’s strikingly genuine and incredibly authentic. It’s a place where past and present blend in an unusual way. Soviet nostalgia is on the streets yet life moves forward in its own rhythm.

In this blog, I will take you through my journey to this fascinating, mysterious, and little-known land, so join me!

The Marshrutka ride to Tiraspol

I was so excited for this day to finally come. I left my lovely hotel in Chișinău, Moldova, and ordered a taxi to the bus station. Originally, I had planned to spend the night in Tiraspol, the capital of Transnistria, but my plans changed when the hotel I had booked emailed me a few days before my trip and informed me that a state of emergency had been declared due to a gas supply shortage—caused by Ukraine cutting off Russian gas transit through its territory—meaning there was a chance there wouldn’t be hot water. With little time to adjust, I quickly changed my plans and decided to make it a day trip instead, returning to Chișinău in the evening.

At the bus station, I asked about the Marshrutka heading to Tiraspol but was told I had to purchase a ticket at the cash counter first. After getting my ticket, I took a seat in the last row of the Marshrutka. I have a love-hate relationship with these Marshrutka minibuses. On one hand, they’re incredibly uncomfortable—cramped, bumpy, and lacking personal space. But on the other hand, they always bring unexpected encounters with fascinating people, making every ride an adventure!

The journey took about two hours. Along the way, I met a cool girl from Transnistria who studies and works in Chisinau. We immediately connected and started to talk about different topics including her unique Transnistrian passport! She showed me her Transnistrian passport, which is a very unusual and an intriguing document! By the way, people who live in Transnistria can either get a Moldovan or a Russian passport to travel abroad and most of them already have it. When we reached the border crossing, the process was very quick, taking only about five minutes. The border control officer, a woman dressed in an army uniform, greeted me with a smile and asked just one question: “How long will you be staying?” I told her I’d be leaving in the evening, and without hesitation, she printed a three-day visa document on a small piece of paper and handed it to me, instructing me to keep it safe for my exit, with a friendly “Welcome to Pridnestrovie” statement.

We made a brief stop in Bender before continuing to Tiraspol, where I arrived and bid farewell to my friendly travel companion. I discovered that the currency exchange office was closed at the bus station, so I asked around for alternatives. Some locals offered to exchange my Moldovan Lei for Transnistrian Rubles, which was a lifesaver! After that, I needed to get to a café where I was meeting my guide, so I looked for a taxi. That’s when one of the locals who had helped me with the currency exchange stepped in and offered me a ride. And guess what? He refused to take any money, insisting I was a guest and shouldn’t have to pay! I insisted, knowing how tough the economic situation is in Transnistria, and in the end, he accepted. I was happy that he did!

I agreed to meet with my guide in Столовка СССР (USSR Cafe). I stepped inside and you can’t imagine the joy I had in that moment. Everything in that large cafe took me back in time 35, 40, or even 50 years back! I can’t describe the feeling I had in that magical moment. I was smiling with joy. I was astonished by everything I saw there. The music, the furniture, the musical instruments, the posters, memorabilia, and so many other things amazed me. I ordered tea and pancakes and waited for my guide Anton who showed up exactly on time!

Meeting the Guide

I met my guide, Anton, whom I found on Viator.com. I opted for the 2.5-hour tour with him, which cost me around USD 30. While 2.5 hours were enough to explore the main sights of Tiraspol, it was certainly not enough to see more of Transnistria—but it was still a good start.

We began the tour at Suvorov Square, where we had an interesting conversation about the geopolitics of Transnistria in particular and the wider region in general. The weather was perfect—sunny, fresh, pleasant, and not cold at all. We spent some time discussing the city’s history before Anton started taking some photos of me. I have to say, he’s an excellent photographer!

About half an hour later, we drove to Hotel Russia to pick up two Italian travelers—a cool guy and his equally cool mother—who were also adventurous enough to visit such a unique destination. They joined my tour, so from that point on, it was the three of us along with our guide, Anton. The tour itself was enjoyable, especially since Anton knows the place inside out. He has some strong opinions on certain topics, but that’s okay—don’t we all? In any case, I believe he’s a great guide, and if you’re interested, I’d be happy to share the link to find him here.

It was a walking distance from the hotel where we picked up the Italian travellers to another major site in Tiraspol which is the “House of Soviets”. This building is another striking example of Soviet-era architecture, featuring grand columns and a prominent Lenin statue at its entrance. It still serves as a government building and it stands as a symbol of Transnistria’s deep Soviet nostalgia and political identity.

We continued our tour and made our way to the glorious Victory Park, where we came across an astonishing Ferris wheel—undoubtedly from Soviet times—standing as a silent witness to the Soviet era. The atmosphere of the park was fascinating, and that Ferris wheel instantly reminded me of the one I saw in Pripyat, Ukraine during my tour of Chernobyl a few years ago. Simply astonishing!

After that, we stopped by a souvenir shop. I’m not usually a big fan of buying souvenirs when I travel, but this was a rare opportunity to pick up some Transnistrian magnets—something you don’t come across every day. While there, our guide, Anton, struck up a conversation with a local babushka (grandmother), asking her if she remembered Soviet times. He asked her what she missed most and how she compared life back then to the present. Unsurprisingly, she was deeply nostalgic about the Soviet era and said she had been much happier back then.

As my tour time was up, I bid farewell to Anton and the Italian travelers. They continued their journey to Bender, another city in the breakaway republic, while I decided to explore Tiraspol a little longer on my own. My next stop? A Soviet-themed restaurant to experience the feeling of going back in time through the food, drinks, and the atmosphere of this restaurant.

Delicious Soviet Food

I read many great reviews about this restaurant so I decided to give it a try as I sincerely believed it would add a lot to my experience in Transnistria. The restaurant is called “Снова в СССР” or “Back to the USSR”. The restaurant feels like a museum frozen in Soviet times. I ordered a classic Soviet lemonade, Borscht soup, and originally planned to try Chicken Kiev. Unfortunately, they had run out, as the place was packed with both locals and travelers. Instead, I went for the chicken schnitzel. The lemonade was great, the borscht was rich and flavorful, but sadly, the schnitzel didn’t quite meet expectations. While the service was friendly, the wait for food was noticeably long.

As I said, this restaurant is more than just a place to eat. Instead, it’s like stepping into a time capsule of the Soviet era. From the moment you walk in, you’re surrounded by Soviet memorabilia, vintage posters, Lenin portraits, and old propaganda banners, all carefully arranged to recreate the atmosphere of the past. The décor, the furniture, and even the staff uniforms are designed to transport you back in time, to the Soviet time.

The nostalgic Soviet music playing in the background, combined with the dim lighting and retro furnishings, adds to the immersive experience. Even if you didn’t live through the Soviet era, you can’t help but feel a sense of history all around you. It’s a truly special spot that offers a unique glimpse into an era many people still nostalgic about.

After my Soviet-themed meal, it was time to head to the bus station. I bought my ticket back to Chisinau, and the Marshrutka ride began. This time, the journey was uneventful; I was exhausted after a long and active day. The only moment that stood out was our brief stop at the border while exiting Transnistria. A soldier in a military uniform collected our passports and later returned them in a rather amusing way; he handed the entire stack to the first passenger, who then passed them to passengers sitting on the back, with each person taking their own.

Summary

Visiting Transnistria was like stepping into a time capsule. It’s such a fascinating feeling to be in an unrecognized breakaway republic where Soviet nostalgia lingers in every street, every corner, every monument, and almost every building. From the moment I crossed the border, I felt that I’m in a very special place. With Lenin squares everything, Soviet-era Ferris wheel, and dining in a restaurant that felt like a museum of the past, every moment I spent there felt like a surreal blend of history and reality. Add to that, the kindness of the local people and the nice conversations I had with the few people I met there.

I spent a short time there, probably about 8 hours in total but it was enough to make me love this place and want to come back to it again to explore more. Transnistria or Pridnestrovie may not officially exist on world maps, but it certainly exists in the heart of its people. It’s a place where history is not only remembered, it’s lived every single day!

Would I recommend visiting this fascinating place? I absolutely do! I also recommend that you do it quickly, as quickly as possible because you never know when things will change there. Remember my trip to Chernobyl? I was so lucky I managed to go there as 6 months later, the war in Ukraine started and who knows when we can visit such a site again?

If you’re fascinated by history, geopolitics, or simply love exploring unique and off-the-beaten-path destinations, Transnistria is a place you will never forget! I personally adore this place and can’t wait to come back someday, especially that I’m a big time lover of Soviet nostalgia.

Finally, when I was there, I remembered a wise quote by someone who said: “Anyone who wants the Soviet Union back has no brain. Anyone who doesn’t miss the Soviet Union has no heart.”

That’s all I can tell about my visit to the fascinating Transnistria or Pridnestrovie, the country that doesn’t exist! I will be back soon to explore more and to write more about this intriguing, fascinating, and certainly beautiful place!