Am I serious about writing a blog about these two cities?

I must admit that I was initially hesitant to write a blog about my trip to these two cities, and the reason behind that is clear: how many people who are not from Kazakhstan have ever heard of these two cities? Probably very few! The idea of writing a blog about them may seem bizarre, but after some thoughts in my head, I said to myself, ‘Why not?’ I am sure there will be someone out there who will be interested in visiting either of these two cities. Perhaps someone lives there or was born there or grew up there and would fancy the idea of reading how a foreigner from very far away perceived their hometown.

In October 2023, I had a trip to Kazakhstan and I visited these two cities for the first time (and maybe for the last time but who knows). In this blog, I will share my experience and impressions there so join me.

Let’s talk about Pavlodar first

Pavlodar is a city located in the northeastern part of Kazakhstan. It’s 450 km northeast of the national capital (Astana) and not far away from the Russian border. The population of the city is around 330,000 inhabitants. It’s characterized by a diverse population, with a majority being ethnic Kazakhs and Russians, along with notable Ukrainian, German, and Tatar minorities.

on a beautiful autumn day, I took an early morning short flight from Astana to Pavlodar. I was flying with a Kazakh Airlines company called SCAT for the first time. I heard many negative things about SCAT particularly how bad their reputation was especially after they were banned from entering European airspace due to safety concerns. However, their reputation improved a lot since the ban was lifted in 2018 and I would say that I had a very nice experience flying with them. The plane was about 30 years old but the flight was short and pleasant; it was on time, the legroom was spacious, and they even provided a free bottle of water. All in all, I had no reason not to like them! The view I had from the window was breathtaking. I was lucky to experience this flight on a warm and sunny autumn day. By the way, I paid $22 USD for the flight and that included one piece of luggage. Amazing deal, right?

My arrival in Pavlodar

After a short flight, I landed at a very small airport in Pavlodar. The airport looked so retro and unreal but it was so easy to get out of the airport and order a taxi to my Airbnb apartment using Yandex App (you must download this app if you are in one of the former USSR countries). The airport is located outside the city so it was around a 25-minute drive to the apartment. I was able to check in easily and seamlessly but I tried to take a nap and I couldn’t because it was so hot inside the apartment as the heating was already working.

After a failed attempt to get some rest, I went out to explore the city and eat something. Despite the somewhat aged appearance of the buildings, the streets were really clean, giving the city a nice retro look. Everything seemed to function very well despite the old age of the infrastructure. I saw a beautiful Soviet-built clock and a vibrant sign of Pavlodar. I stopped at a cafe/restaurant called “Discovery Coffee” for lunch. Upon entering the place, I noticed many eyes on me, perhaps wondering, ‘Who is this guy and what is he doing here? Is he crazy?’. I had a beef cutlet dish for lunch and I would say, I wasn’t impressed but I must say that it wasn’t too bad either. I reminded myself that I shouldn’t expect gourmet-quality food in Pavlodar. Anyhow, I paid, left, and headed to the riverbank.

Irtish River Embankment

The river embankment in Pavlodar is one of the most beautiful in the entire country and luckily, I was there in a warm and sunny autumn day. Despite being completely on my own on that day, I still enjoyed the beautiful walk. Also, being on my own gave me the opportunity to take many photos and fully immerse myself in the moment. It was such a magical walk and I was genuinely impressed by the beauty of this place.

Later in the evening, I decided to go to a sports bar to watch a football game in the Premier League between Liverpool and Brighton. If I’m not mistaken, the result was 2:2, which was not the most exciting outcome for me as someone who wanted Liverpool to win. While watching the game, I ordered an appetizer platter, but unfortunately, nothing in that dish tasted good. Once again, I’m not in Pavlodar for the food, right? After the game, I chatted with some guys there. Most of them seemed to be friendly and asked me some questions about what am I doing there but one of them was a bit aggressive (I guess because of alcohol) so I thought it was a good idea to order a Yandex taxi and leave so I returned to the apartment, where I watched another game on the laptop and called it a night.

Heading to Semey the next morning

I had to check out at 11 am and they didn’t allow me to store my luggage there so I had about 5.5 hours to kill before boarding my train to Semey. About the apartment where I stayed in Pavlodar, even though it was interiorly renovated, it wasn’t very comfortable for me to stay there so luckily I only had to stay there for one night. It was very hot inside the apartment so I had to keep the windows open all the time and also, I saw some small cockroaches in the washroom (luckily, this is something I rarely encounter in my travels). I reported these issues to the owners hoping they would address them. I was disappointed that they didn’t let me store my luggage there for a few hours so I had to head to the train station to store it there. I don’t remember how much money I paid but I think it wasn’t very cheap, making it one of the rare moments I felt ripped off in Kazakhstan.

To pass the time, I decided to visit a restaurant highly recommended by my ex-colleague and a good friend in Canada, who is originally from Pavlodar and familiar with the local scene. She suggested trying out a really cool restaurant called Hudson, owned by one of her friends. The place was nearly empty when I arrived there as it was likely becoming busy during the evening. The service was exceptionally pleasant and friendly, even though the waitress didn’t speak English. Thanks to Google Translator, we managed to communicate effectively. Despite the restaurant’s upscale ambiance and friendly service, the food fell a bit short of expectations but again, I kept on reminding myself that I was not in Pavlodar for the food. While the food was well-presented, the taste itself wasn’t spectacular. Nonetheless, I appreciated the experience as it provided a way to pass a few hours.

The train to Semey

It was time to head to the station; I boarded my train, and to my pleasant surprise, it was a brand-new train called ‘Talgo.’ Established in 2011, Talgo is a joint venture of the Kazakhstan Train Company and the Spanish company Talgo. The compartment was exceptionally beautiful. Similar to Russian-style trains, this train offers three classes: Platzkart or third class, Kupe or second class, and SV or first class. Opting for SV, I found it to be an excellent deal. Normally accommodating two passengers, I was supposed to share the compartment, but no one showed up during this 6-hour train journey, so I ended up having this beautiful and modern compartment all to myself.

The train ride was very comfortable. I captured some magnificent photos of the Kazakh steppe in this beautiful autumn season, and the sunset view was so beautiful. Later in the evening, I headed to the restaurant compartment for dinner and ordered pelmeni and salad. The taste was just alright—nothing special, but not too bad either. It was challenging to take a nap on this train due to the constant shaking. Interestingly, I heard similar comments from other travellers about this new train. Despite being brand-new, it shakes a lot!

I arrived at Semey just before midnight and then my adventure in Semey started.

Arrival in Semey

I must admit that I felt a bit intimidated when I first arrived. It was around midnight, and it was completely dark with the sounds of stray dogs barking. There were no people around as I waited outside the station for a taxi I had ordered from the ‘Yandex’ app. An old and tired car eventually arrived, and I had to sit next to the driver as the backdoor wouldn’t even open. Despite expressing my exhaustion and limited Russian language skills, the driver insisted on chatting and uncomfortably encroached on my personal space. While I generally feel safe in all former Soviet Union countries I visit, for some reason—perhaps due to the late hour and the somewhat worn-down appearance of the city—I didn’t have that sense of comfort for the first time. I arrived at my accommodation and I was relieved to find the owner waiting for me in the dark outside the building. He assisted me with the check-in, and after a quick shower and change, I went to bed, knowing I had a long day ahead to explore the city the next day. By the way, the apartment in Semey was quite small; it resembled a small hotel room but at least, it wasn’t too hot and there were no cockroaches this time. Jokes aside, it was fine.

Let’s talk about Semey

Semey, formerly known as Semipalatinsk until 2007, is a city in the northeastern part of Kazakhstan, situated in the Kazakh part of Siberia near the border with Russia. The population of the city is around 350,000 inhabitants. It holds a historical significance as the place where Fyodor Dostoyevsky, the great Russian writer, served as a political exile for five years (1854–1859) while in the military of the Russian Empire. Locals believe that details from some descriptive passages in Dostoyevsky’s books, including his masterpiece ‘The Brothers Karamazov,’ are recognizable from his time in Semey.

The city is sadly known for its proximity to the Semipalatinsk test site where 456 nuclear tests, including 340 underground and 116 atmospheric tests, took place between 1949 and 1989. This info actually leads to the reason why I decided to visit Semey. Well, I had some free time because I was between jobs and then, the idea of visiting this obscure city was sparked by a good friend—an Italian YouTube vlogger who is by the way, fluent in Russian, known for creating great videos about former Soviet Union countries. He suggested to me to visit Semey because its known for its association with the infamous nuclear testing site. As you can read, he’s a bit crazy, and I am also crazy for listening to him. Nevertheless, I am grateful for the experience, as not many people in the world can proudly say, ‘I’ve been to that city called Semey in the northeastern part of Kazakhstan.’ Feel free to check out his YouTube channel here

My day in Semey

I woke up the next morning, and the first thing I needed to do was find a nice cafe for breakfast. I’m usually very successful at discovering food places using Google Maps (I have an unwritten rule that I never enter any cafe or restaurant with less than 4 stars out of 5 in Google Maps reviews). I found a cafe, but guess what? They don’t serve breakfast. I walked and walked and then found another Turkish cafe. I ordered coffee and something to eat, but unfortunately, it’s definitely not something to remember. I kept on walking and finally found a nice cafe called ‘Global Coffee.’ I was so happy that I could finally drink a good quality coffee and eat a not-so-bad almond croissant. While chewing the croissant, I remembered the famous phrase from Chernobyl TV show ‘ Not great, not terrible’.

it was time to visit ‘The Stronger Than Death’ monument. Standing at a height of 30 meters, the monument honors the victims of more than 40 years of nuclear tests at the Semipalatinsk nuclear testing site. It is a moving and powerful symbol, representing the impact of nuclear testing on the local population and the enduring strength of the people in the face of such tragedy.

Situated on an island in the Irtysh River, the area surrounding the monument is gorgeous, with the autumn colors being breathtaking. I had one of the best solo trips there and was successful in capturing many beautiful photos.

Dostoevsky Museum

After the visit to the island, I ordered a taxi and headed to the Dostoevsky Museum. Fyodor Dostoevsky is one of my favourite writers so I looked forward to exploring his museum in Semey where he spent 5 years in exile serving in the military as a punishment. The museum is situated where Dostoevsky spent the final stretch of his exile in the city. It’s a very interesting museum and provides comprehensive insights into his life and contribution to literature. Sadly, most explanations are available only in Russian and there was no English-speaking guide around. Actually, I was the only visitor in the museum.

The worst burger in the world

Later in the evening, it was time for dinner. I opened Google Maps and searched for a restaurant with excellent reviews, and I thought I found one called ‘The Loft,’ with 4.7 stars on Google Maps. Upon arrival, I was impressed to see it was almost full, with only one free table. Luckily, I encountered a very kind and friendly waitress who spoke perfect English, and she seated me there. I was given the menu, and I noticed that ‘The Loft Burger’ was their signature dish. Having not had a burger in over two weeks, I decided to give it a try, along with ordering a soup for starters. I can’t recall the soup’s name and honestly, the taste failed to impress me so it was another forgettable experience. However, who cares about the soup because I was waiting for the big boss, the burger!

The waitress brought the burger to my table, it was served with french fries, ketchup, and even gloves! Everything seemed fine until I took the first bite and realized the burger was swimming in sauce. I decided to cut it into halves because the huge amount of sauce caused a big mess! I thought cutting it in halves would drain the excess sauce, but it remained overwhelmingly saucy. I can confidently say it was among the worst burger experiences I’ve had in my travels. I told the waitress about it and even asked her to inform the chef about this culinary disaster. Actually, I should have asked the chef “Why?” Why was he obsessed with sauce? 🙂 Anyhow, she assured me she would, so I hope she did.

I walked back to the apartment feeling not so well after that terrible super saucy burger experience 🙂

Semey Airport and the beautiful Yak-40

The next morning, I visited the only cafe in Semey where I could find good and edible food. It’s ‘Global Coffee’, the cafe that I tried the previous day. This place was like an oasis of food and coffee in Semey, as all the other places I visited were below average at best. Anyhow, maybe it was just bad luck, or perhaps it’s simply the truth that the food isn’t that good there in Semey.

I went back to the apartment to pack. I checked out and was getting ready to leave for the airport and then I received a message from someone I met online who asked if I was still in Semey. I said yes but I was leaving for the airport in half an hour. I told her so but she insisted on giving me a ride to the airport, which was such a kind gesture. It wasn’t a short ride as the airport is situated outside the city but she was so nice and kind to give me a ride even though she was meeting me for the first time.

Outside the airport, the beautiful and rare Soviet-built Yak-40 aircraft was waiting for me. I spent more than 10 minutes admiring its beauty and capturing photos of it. It’s such a magnificent plane. My Italian vlogger recently posted a video on YouTube about flying on one of these rare and vintage Yak-40 planes in Northern Russia. Check out the video here.

Semey airport is retro and very small, with only 4 or 5 flights taking off every day. The departure hall became crowded, with more people than seats. After spending a few days in the North Eastern part of Kazakhstan, I was so excited to return to civilization in Almaty. The excitement only grew as I touched down in Almaty again, and I couldn’t have been happier.

Summary

As I mentioned at the beginning of this blog, I never expected myself to write about these two cities for various reasons; they aren’t known by most of people, and honestly, I didn’t find anything particularly special about them during my visit. However, three months after my trip, upon reflecting on my experiences, I realized there were some interesting moments worth sharing. While it may not be as thrilling as my content on Chernobyl, Samarkand, Yerevan, or St. Petersburg, it still had its own charm and once again, it’s worth sharing. I probably had bad luck with the food but I was extremely lucky with the weather, something to be grateful for.

The excitement for me came from unexpected things; three days without a single delicious meal, an online friend who gave me a ride to the airport without ever meeting me, and the captivating beauty of the natural surroundings coupled with gorgeous weather. I think that I had a good time there. Not as great as the time I had in Almaty or Tashkent but it was great in its special way. The length and probably the quality (this is something the readers decide, though) of this blog is proof that it was a good time!

Although I enjoyed my time there, the likelihood of a return visit is higher for Pavlodar rather than Semipalatinsk. I guess it’s a bit challenging to see myself going back to Semipalatinsk but who knows, life is full of surprises.

This is all I can say about my experience and impressions in Pavlodar and Semey for now. If you enjoyed this blog, please share it. This marks my first blog post in the year 2024, and I hope to visit and write posts about Bosnia, Slovenia, Albania, Turkmenistan, and perhaps several former USSR countries, including Russia, as I haven’t been there since 2019.

Finally, it has been more than 100 days since the barbaric and genocidal war on Gaza started. I have no words to describe my feelings about it, but like anyone else, I hope it will stop very soon. I also hope that all those who committed these atrocities, along with their supporters, will be brought to justice. Free Palestine!