93% of Tajikistan is covered by mountains

Tajikistan is another former Soviet Union republic that gained its independence in 1991, shortly after the Soviet Union was dissolved. The country is situated between Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan to the north and west, China to the east, and Afghanistan to the south. 93% of Tajikistan’s land area is covered by mountains; the two primary mountain ranges are the Pamir Mountains and the Alay Mountains. The country’s mountainous terrain creates a natural barrier that separates Tajikistan’s two major population centers. Today, Tajikistan is the poorest former Soviet Union republic with an economy heavily reliant on agriculture and remittances from migrant workers in Russia.

In July 2023, I visited Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan for the first time, I spent three nights there. As an enthusiast of the former USSR countries, I made a decision a few years ago to visit each one of them. With a total of 15 former Soviet republics, Tajikistan marked the 14th country on my list to explore. Honestly, the primary motivation behind my visit was to fulfill the goal of visiting all 15 former USSR republics. However, after visiting this beautiful country, I quickly discovered that Tajikistan had much more to offer than just being the 14th country on my list.

In this blog post, I will take you through my travel experience in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. I will also share my thoughts and emotions about the city so join me!

The flight to Dushanbe wasn’t very pleasant

I was in Almaty, Kazakhstan when I decided to fly to Dushanbe. Initially, my plan was to take a train to Shymkent, cross the border into Uzbekistan, spend a few days there, and then fly to Dushanbe. However, I came across a cheap and direct flight from Almaty to Dushanbe on Somon Air, the flag carrier of Tajikistan, so I decided to take advantage of the opportunity and purchased a ticket. The flight ended up being delayed for almost two hours. Unfortunately, the crew didn’t provide any information about the reason for the delay, which was frustrating. Once the flight finally took off, it was short and uneventful. The service was almost nonexistent as they only served a small cup of water and the cabin crew didn’t seem to be enjoying what they were doing. Having previously flown with Air Astana and Uzbekistan Airways, Somon Air from Tajikistan marked my third experience with a national flag carrier in the Central Asian region, and it’s safe to say it was my least favourite.

We landed at Dushanbe airport, and it appeared that another plane from Russia had landed at the same time. We walked to the passport control area, where there were about eight passport control booths, but there were no passport control officers in them. Everyone waited for at least a few minutes before the chaos started as the tiny passport control hall became overcrowded, queues were not moving, and many people were trying to take spots ahead of others. It was a complete mess, an incredibly frustrating one.

Beyond the chaos, it also posed a national security risk because the overcrowding situation made it so easy for someone to enter the country without proper passport checks, can you believe it? After experiencing this not-so-pleasant welcome to the country for over an hour, I finally managed to get my passport stamped (As a Canadian citizen, I didn’t need any e-visa), I collected my suitcase and made my way through a huge crowd of people in the arrival hall who were there to welcome arrivals. Afterward, I made my way outside the terminal to an open space where taxi drivers were waiting. I had to negotiate a price with a taxi driver to take me to my hotel, which was located less than a 5-minute drive away from the airport.

It was 8 pm when I checked into my hotel. I stayed at a hotel called Ayni Hotel; it was an average hotel, neither exceptional nor terrible and the breakfast was average as well. The room for the night cost me about 50 USD.

After checking in and taking a shower, I found myself quite drained of energy, so I only went for a short walk before finding a cafe for a quick dinner. The meal was just average, so there’s nothing particularly to report here.

Exploring Dushanbe

The next morning, following a quick average breakfast at the hotel, I needed to withdraw some cash because I didn’t have any and also, cash is essential in Tajikistan, especially when using taxis. The hotel receptionist told me about an ATM machine nearby, so I tried it. Unfortunately, it wasn’t working, and I encountered the same issue with another ATM as it was also not working. after desperately searching for a working ATM, I recalled seeing a large Hilton hotel within walking distance from my hotel so I had the idea to go there and search, and fortunately, it turned out to be a great idea because they had a functioning ATM inside the hotel. I was able to withdraw the cash I needed and then started the city exploration.

The first thing on my list to see was to see the Dushanbe flagpole, which currently ranks as the fourth tallest flagpole in the world. When it was completed in 2011, it was the world’s tallest flagpole. Being a big lover of flags, I was quite excited to see this enormous flag. However, I was so unlucky. When I arrived, there was no flag! I asked some people in my broken Russian language “Where is the flag?” Unfortunately, they explained that the flag wasn’t waving that day due to the weather conditions. It was quite disappointing. I returned the next day in the hope of seeing the flag waving, but once again, it wasn’t there!

National Museum of Tajikistan

When I visit a country for the first time, one of my favourite things to do is to explore its national museum, and that’s exactly what I did in Tajikistan. The National Museum of Tajikistan is located in the same area near the flagpole. I walked in, purchased a ticket, and started my museum tour. It took me about an hour to explore all the exhibition halls, which covered a wide range of topics, including natural history, ancient and medieval history, modern history, and fine and applied arts. While I didn’t come across anything particularly spectacular, the museum provided valuable insights into the country’s heritage and culture.

The most attractive section, for me, was the modern history exhibit, where I encountered a collection of Soviet art and historical artifacts. Additionally, I noticed many photographs of Tajikistan’s President, Emomali Rahmon, who has been Tajikistan’s head of state since 1992.

Tajikistan’s national dish (Qurutob)

After my museum tour, it was time for lunch, and I decided to try Qurutob, Tajikistan’s national dish (alongside Plov), for the first time. I came across a restaurant with excellent reviews that specializes in this dish called “Qurutobkhonai Olim.”

Qurutob consists of dried cheese balls soaked in water, strips of flatbread, and a mixture of vegetables like onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, and herbs. Meat and chilli peppers are also added to enhance the flavours. I’m glad I had the opportunity to sample this traditional dish, but I must admit that it didn’t become a personal favourite. While it was an interesting culinary experience, it didn’t top my list of the best national dishes I’ve ever tried.

The local experience at the restaurant was unique though. The ambiance was incredibly welcoming, and the place was full of a genuine local feel. I was attended to by a young gentleman who didn’t speak English but he spoke some German. Since my German is better than my Russian, we managed to communicate. This server was exceptionally kind, and I wanted to express my gratitude through a tip. However, he declined it! It’s fascinating to learn how tipping culture varies across the world. In North America, leaving tips is often considered mandatory, while in places like Tajikistan, even though it’s one of the poorest countries in terms of GDP per capita, some individuals may politely decline tips as a part of their local customs and hospitality.

Victory Park and WWII Memorial

Victory Park in Dushanbe was opened in 1985 in honour of the 40th anniversary of Victory in the Great Patriotic War. It is situated on top of a hill that provides a panoramic view of the city. However, during my visit, the park was surprisingly deserted, and even the eternal flame wasn’t lit. I found myself to be the sole visitor, which provided a unique opportunity to relax and meditate amidst the tranquil surroundings. I heard the park could be packed during local holidays though.

On my way back to the hotel, I hailed a taxi on the street. In Tajikistan, there’s no Yandex taxi app, so the old-fashioned way of waving for a taxi and carrying cash is the way to go. The taxi driver started to have a conversation with me and asked me about where I was from and what I was doing there, I managed to respond with my limited Russian language. When it was time to pay the fare, to my surprise, he refused to accept any money. I insisted, but he was equally determined and even held my hand firmly, reassuring me that it was unnecessary because I was their guest. This situation left me wondering how some of the kindest and most generous people are often among the poorest. It was the second time in a single day that someone had declined to accept money from me, leaving a lasting impression of their hospitality.

New Tajik Friends

Later in the evening, I had the pleasure of meeting an online friend who brought along another friend. Together, they showed me around some remarkable places in the city, and we even managed to capture some wonderful photos. We later decided to visit “Varzob Valley” which is located about 40 minutes outside the city. This area is a beloved recreation spot for Dushanbe residents and it’s full of picnic spots. Since it was evening, a picnic wasn’t on the agenda, but we enjoyed a delicious and delightful dinner at one of the local restaurants.

The time I spent with my new friends was truly priceless. Their kindness and hospitality were overwhelming, a testament to the warmth and generosity of the Tajik people that I will never forget.

Wondering around the city on my last day

On my last day in Dushanbe, the quiet and peaceful capital city of Tajikistan, I decided to take it easy and go with the flow. I walked around the city to explore the city’s architecture and I was on a hunt for some Soviet mosaics. Fortunately, I managed to find a couple of these intriguing artworks.

During my exploration, I discovered some charming cafes and restaurants, each offering delightful culinary experiences. For lunch, I opted for an unusual but intriguing combination at an Italian/Georgian restaurant called Osteria Mario. I tried Georgian salad, which was decent, and a pizza Margherita. However, the pizza margherita didn’t quite live up to my expectations, the crust wasn’t authentic at all but it was generally ok.

In the evening, I found out that a Canadian couple whom I hadn’t seen since 2014 were also in Dushanbe. We made plans to meet and we enjoyed a nice dinner together at a Turkish restaurant, catching up on old times.

Later at night, I decided to visit a pub called the Public Pub at night and the original plan was to try the Tajik burger. I have a tradition of trying burgers in every country I visit. Unfortunately, I was still full from dinner with the Canadian couple, but my friend ordered the burger and assured me that it was delicious. You can find a photo of it below.

Summary

Tajikistan is undoubtedly a beautiful country, attracting numerous tourists, especially hikers and campers, from around the world every year. Interestingly, Dushanbe often gets skipped in their itineraries, which has led to a lack of content about the capital city on the web. When it comes. to tourism, Tajikistan is more famous for its Pamir Highway and mountainous landscapes, and truth be told, I didn’t catch a glimpse of any of that during my visit, as I chose to stay exclusively in the capital.

Do I regret that decision? Not exactly. My time in the city was truly enjoyable, and I had the pleasure of meeting incredibly kind and hospitable people. While I did encounter a few challenges, such as the arrival experience, difficulty finding a functioning ATM, and the absence of a taxi app, these minor inconveniences didn’t spoil my experience at all.

Tajikistan may not be as developed as some other former USSR countries, but it remains a captivating place to explore, with some of the kindest people I’ve ever encountered. I would love to go there again to explore the Pamir Highway which is an experience I always wanted to have. Here’s a link to Pamir Highway guide: Pamir Highway Guide

I noticed that Tajikistan stands out as the most traditional among the former Soviet Union countries in Central Asia, and this is evident in the attire worn by both men and women. The percentage of ethnically Russians in Tajikistan is likely the lowest among all the ‘Stan’ countries, which is less than 1% of the total population. This demographic makes Tajikistan a less diverse nation compared to its neighbouring countries.

The next morning, I headed to the airport to catch my flight to Tashkent Uzbekistan with Uzbekistan Airways. The ride to the airport took less than 3 minutes which makes it one of the shortest rides to the airport I’ve had. Also, luckily, the Dushanbe airport was in a much better condition this time so everything went smoothly.

That’s all I can say about Dushanbe, the Tajikistan capital for now. If you enjoyed this blog, please feel free to share it.